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Coast Cruise |
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From
the air, they look like a web of tiny silver threads spinning across
the patchwork quilt of the Kerala coast. Canals, sometimes as narrow
as an arm-span, sometimes broadening out into vast, misty lakes. Straight
as an arrow, or curling gracefully through scented forests of coconut,
pepper and cinnamon.
These are the backwaters of Kerala. And their life's blood are the boats
that ply here, used for housing, transport, commuting, commerce and
in recent times, pleasure.
The queen among these is the 'Kettuvallom', the traditional rice barge,
with its sturdy build and stately carriage.
Today, the Kettuvallom offers the visitor to Kerala an entirely new
kind of experience. Combining holidaying, pleasure boating and ecological
living in an exhilarating way.
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The
backwaters are an ecology unlike any other on earth. Rivers rush down
from the Cardamom Hills to drain breathlessly into the plains, forming
rivulets, canals and dozens of shallow, broad lakes. These, in turn,
merge with the estuaries of the Malabar Coast. Finally, criss-crossing
this natural system are a network of man-made waterways, centuries old,
that give the region its life and special character.
(When Vasco da Gama arrived in these parts, he found the backwaters
much as you will experience them today).
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Elaborations
in Wood and Rope
Our Spice Coast cruises feature single and two-bedroom houseboats, complete
with kitchens, bathrooms and your own personal cooks-cum-attendants-cum-boatmen.
The boat hulls are made from seasoned 'Anjili' (Jackfruit) logs, that
have a natural gentle curvature. Keels are flat, because the rivers
here can get mighty shallow at times, and also to allow the boat to
be easily punted. (They come with a quiet outboard motor too, so the
boatman can get some rest)
Respecting the ancient character of the Kettuvallom, we took
an integrative approach to the interiors. You'll see natural and local
materials everywhere, products of the forest of wealth that surrounds
the backwaters. The decks are laden with coir matting, and the distinctive
canopy uses split bamboo, lashed together with coir and covered with
palm fronds.
Note
the winged awnings, that, when raised, give the houseboat a distinctly
rakish air. Legend has it that they're a Chinese influence, (like the
fishing nets). Be that as it may, we put in a few extra ones, to take
full advantage of the breeze, and so you can get a better look at the
view.
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Satori
in a Spice Boat.
The Japanese managed to put it in a single word - 'Satori'. A sudden
flash of experience that leaves its mark on your soul and colours all
your life afterwards.
To cruise the myriad beauties of the backwaters is to invite Satori.
So close your eyes for a minute and let your imagination wander with
us.
You
are on the boats' forward sundeck, comfortably ensconced in a rosewood-and-cane
easy chair. Before you is a 19th century table and upon it is a fresh
coconut, its water spiked with lime.
Your boat moves towards the mouth of the Kavanar river at a scorching
6 miles an hour. Hmmm. It would be a fight to keep your eyelids from
closing, except that a refreshingly soft breeze angles in westerly,
off the Vembanad lake. It carries the cries of distant darter birds,
surprisingly loud over the waters.
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You
move upstream, and the gentle life of another world unfolds around you.
A man, for some reason, gives his pig a bath on the riverside steps.
A child smiles and waves shyly from behind a jackfruit tree. A dugout
canoe, dangerously laden with a cargo of rice, passes by. You watch
anxiously, but the water, ever threatening to slop over into the boat,
never quite does so, and before you know it, its master has expertly
manoevered the vessel to the far bank.
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The
Fragile Biosphere
A paradise in very real danger of being lost. The ecology of the backwaters
is under threat from factors such as silting, overfishing and industrial
effluents. The recent upsurge in tourist activity has given new economic
life to the local society, but also served to spoil some of its most
charming characteristics.
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FACTSHEET
Traditional Houseboat
Cruises. |
ACCOMMODATION : |
One and Two Bedroom Kettuvalloms
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FACILITIES : |
Living room, bed room with
attached bathroom
Solar power
Crew - Navigator / cook
Regular doctors on call
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DISTANCES : |
55 kms from Cochin
95 Kms from Cochin international airport
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SEASONS : |
Jan - Mar: cool, dry
April - May: Summer
June - August: Monsoon
Sept - Dec: pleasant, dry
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CONTACT : |
travelplan@asianetindia.com
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